Why I moved to Israel: Part II or "Born to Wander"

I have always been a nomad. The longest I have ever lived in one place was six years, and that was two years too many. I grew up moving, as did my parents. I have no hometown and I don't feel allegiance to any particular place, (though SF, NYC and London are very close to my heart) this includes America as a whole. I have never believed that Americans do it better than all other 1st world, liberal countries. The older I get, the more the US irks me. I find myself opposing more and more of the policies of the country of my birth. From the war on drugs to healthcare to welfare needs to maternity leave...I disagree with how America wants to treat its people and in the past few years it has bothered me more and more.

A map of the places my family lived up until 1998. This hangs in my parent's house. 

I lost everything in the last year or so. I ended a long term relationship with the man I thought I was going to marry, I was laid-off at my awesome job because of situations beyond my control and my cheap and perfect NYC apartment was ripped from my hands with no warning while I was traveling. On top of that there was a very tragic and young death in my family, leaving me to help take care of a rambunctious 12 year old for about a month before leaving for Birthright. Things were quite hard for me, and I am very lucky that I had (have) a support network of incredible friends who made me smile and took me in and smothered me in love. Without them, as well as a new and amazing romantic relationship, I would've been in the deep depths of depression...but even with them, something was not right.

The Negev desert. Massive and beautiful
Photo by Justin Tyler Russikoff

I found peace in the desert. I have not seen many deserts in my life, but I have loved every one I've been to. As soon as our bus started heading into the Negev desert I couldn't sleep, I was captivated by the beauty and wide expanse of it all. I'm not sure exactly what it is about the desert that makes me feel so calm...perhaps it is because it is the polar opposite to a city, and I am nothing if not a city girl. Perhaps it is because the desert tends to draw unusual people to it - I mean, who actually chooses to be where there is no water, little shade and extreme temperatures, not to mention a need for radical self-reliance, if you aren't prepared for the desert, you will die...and that's that. Or maybe it's the same reason I enjoy snorkeling and seeing under the sea so much, its a chance to see what human beings cannot conquer. Bedouins and similar tribes are the only people who have made the desert their home (without extensive man made infrastructures which neutralize the difficulties that make a desert the desert) and they only survive it by being nomadic and deeply respecting that cruel, sandy mistress. You cannot conquer the desert.

Black Rock Desert or The Playa. Tell me, what does the fox say at sunrise sans champagne?
Photo by David Katz

Upon arriving, amidst complaints of Americans that it's too hot and "oh my god, we have to sleep outside in a tent?!"I felt great. I felt at home. Some of you know of another desert that many people call home (yes, I know it's technically not a real desert but let's not bicker about semantics), a desert where we set up a community full of lights and fire and art and people. And yes, Burning Man is a city, but every year I spend the bulk of my time out in the deeps, where there is little to no light except for the stars, and no sound but the wind howling and the dust getting ready for a white out. I love the sound of the desert, it is so big and powerful.

At night our birthright guide, a fellow desert lover, took us all out to lie under the stars and listen to stories about the constellations and the Jewish people. It hit me that my love of the desert may have something to do with the lore of my people, of the wandering of the desert and the incessant need to hold onto this tiny strip of land that is 60% desert. I walked away from the group and found a high spot to stand on and relax and look around. I made my decision to move to Israel at that moment. I felt at peace, while also coursing with energy and potential for the future. As hostile as the desert is, everyone is welcome there, any weirdo or freak can go and be alone, or even better they can go and draw other like minded freaks there.

Look at the Jews wander the desert!
Photo by Justin Tyler Russikoff

Just this week my new group of Americans in Israel (who will always be referred to as Taglit by Israeli's even though we're not) went to the Negev for three days. While it wasn't what I wanted - sleeping under the stars, some solitude, better hikes - it was still wonderful and very informative as far as what challenges the Negev provides. I am not going to give a history lesson on Ben Gurion because I hardly know anything, but I absolutely love that Israel's first Prime Minister was the biggest desert cheerleader. He encouraged Israelis to make the desert theirs, he even joined a kibbutz in the Negev, away from the cities and infrastructure and politics, to this day it is where his body lies (while most other Prime Ministers are buried in Jerusalem's national cemetery). I find his love of the desert, as well as all the people who have struggled to make the land work for them inspiring.

I have already looked into artists communes in the desert. One of the Americans scoffed when I asked the guide if he knew of any and I was so pleased that he responded with exactly what I wanted to hear "Yes, there are many strange people in the Negev." I will be wandering the desert, and there will be more to come from my favorite hostile environment. I will not be making it to Black Rock this year, but I will be involved with putting on Midburn, Israel's 4 day regional festival in the desert. I can't wait. I am eager to let the desert of my people invigorate and center me, just the way the desert of my freaky people, my selected family, always has. Though I will be busy and loving the hustle and bustle of Tel Aviv, my eyes and ear will always be open...ready for the next desert adventure.






Up Next: Why I Moved to Israel: Part III or OHMYGOD I LOVE COSTUMES!!!!